Shower Plumbng - I'm in Hot Water Now

One of the creature comforts that Beth is looking forward to on Harmony is on board showers.  Yes, the in-cockpit Sun Shower fed showers on Poetry were a wonderful way to end the day.  However, we both lack the exhibition gene and the efforts we each took to practice proper decorum while bathing in the cockpit more often than not made the actual cleaning process somewhat difficult!

On Harmony, we'll have a shower in the forward head:  what a luxury.  To fuel that shower, we'll also have pressure hot and cold water.  To get cold water is a fairly easy feed from the on-board water tanks:  remember those brand new beauties!  However, like most domestic household applications, the hot water will have to come from an on-board hot water heater.

When we bought Harmony, she had an old Raritan 6 gallon hot water heater.  These are generally very suitable units, but they can develop leaks over time no matter how well they are winterized.  Well, the Raritan unit on Harmony had succumbed to the leakage of age.  We needed a new hot water heater.

Our old Raritan 6 Gallon Water Heater - it developed a leak and needed to go

OK, which size and make to choose?  These hot water heaters can be operated on 110 volts AC or be plumbed into the engine's cooling system.  We will have both options open to us for the few times we'll find ourselves in a marina slip.

We could fit a larger than 6 gallon unit, but did we really need to.  The more water to heat the longer it takes to heat and that means more electricity or a longer engine run time.  Since we wanted to minimize engine run time for economy and environmental responsibility, we chose to stick with the 6 gallon size.  Besides, with the engine running it shouldn't take longer than 15 to 20 minutes to have abundantly hot water.

Now, what brand to get?  The Raritan units can be somewhat of a standard, but a trolling through the life supporting marine catalogs offers a veritable plethora of options.  We wanted one that would have longevity, have superior insulation, and be relatively free from operational problems.

After a thorough review of the internet, the several sailing blogs and networks, and our own Westsail Owners Association, we had narrowed our choices down.  After our discussions at the Newport Boat Show, we had made our decision.  Our friendly marine refrigeration expert, Kathy Groh from Great Water Marine Systems, had spent time discussing the Isotemp hot water heaters with us.

Based on its all stainless steel construction and excellent insulation, we chose to go with a 6 gallon unit.  Kathy had a show model with an invisible dent that she let us have for a bargain price:  no brainer!  The Isotemp will be able to hold the water temperature for up to 35+ hours.  This will allow for Beth and me to each have a shower and there to be water left over for other purposes.

The Isotemp hot water heater installed on Harmony

The Isotemp in its Port side nook in the engine room

The installation of the Isotemp 6 gallon unit couldn't have been easier.  I used 4 through bolts through its solid base.  All I had to do then was connect the plumbing hoses and a by-pass for winterizing.  It fit perfectly in the engine room.

For one of the few times in my life, I am perfectly content to be in hot water!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Shrinkage - Not a Big Deal

Alright, because we choose to base our nautical adventures in New England and Marion, MA, to be precise, consideration for winter storage is an important component in the annual maintenance process.  The choices range from doing nothing, blue poly tarps, shrink-wrap, and canvas covers.  Now, I didn't mention inside storage, because that often eliminates the possibility of DIY work.

Doing nothing is certainly easy at first.  However, the boat is subject to all of the harshness of the New England weather:  rain, snow, sleet, etc.  While easy and cheap at the onset, this method begets much more maintenance in the Spring.

While/blue poly tarps, a ubiquitous feature of many northeast boat yard in the past, has been eliminated from consideration because of one major problem.  There are many instances where the tarp has split and become a huge sail that threatened to pull the boat off its jack stands in a storm.  Not good for the boat or the neighboring boats!

The main choice is between shrink-wrap and custom canvas covers.  Shrink-wrap is usually an annual solution, although some folks are able to extend the life of the cover for another year:  incredible effort for questionable return.  Canvas covers custom designed for the boat generally last for at least 10 years, although fastidious care can push the life out to 15 years.

White shrink-wrap covers on the boats stored around Harmony

Shrink-wrap is either clear, blue, or white, and is very strong when shrunk.  However, it is not breathable and the installation requires several ventilation holes.  Moisture from the air and water left in the bilges is usually retained inside and can sometimes lead to mold and mildew.  In some cases this lack of ventilation can damage the gel-coat and painted surfaces.  This product can be recycled, but both the boat owner and the boat yard management need to be make the effort to recycle and not just stuff the plastic into the dumpster in the Spring.  The annual cost for shrink-wrapping a boat can fall within the $3.00 to $4.00 a foot range, but some services can do so for much less.

Canvas covers are cover the boat similarly to shrink-wrap, but the canvas breathes naturally and strategically placed vent holes do a great job of providing ventilation.  Gelcoat and painted surface damage is usually not a concern.  While similar in purpose and results to a shrink-wrap cover, the canvas cover can be reused for many years and is made of a natural material.  However, the initial cost of the cover can be 3X or 4X the cost of an annual shrink-wrap cover.

We've used an annual shrink-wrap cover on Poetry for many years, but we wanted to take a different tack for Harmony.  Directionally, we've taken a significant environmentally responsible focus with how we'll operate Harmony:  composting heads, LED lights, renewable energy sources, etc.  We now needed to decide how to effectively cover Harmony during the winter months.  With the exception of the initial cost, the decision was a natural no brainer:  Canvas.

The Canvas Cover on Harmony - custom sewn by Sperry Sailmakers

To shrink-wrap Harmony, we would generally spend about $1,500 a year.  We priced out canvas covers and we found we could spend between $4,500 and $6,500 on a well made cover.  That means that we would break even in roughly 3 to 4 years.  These covers last about 10 years, so the financial decision was fairly easy.  In the long run we would save up to $6,500 in overall maintenance costs.  Yes, we would have to care for the cover ourselves, but isn't that what life is about anyway.

Voluminous access door at the stern

Great, we chose our sail maker Sperry Sails because of their quality, convenience, and price.  They did a great job, and their design provide us with great access to the boat while covered and wonderful space under the cover to do routine maintenance while covered. 

Standing head room space for on deck maintenance

Yes it was a big check to write, but we are happy with the decision, and our environmentally responsible efforts are kept in place.

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Fresh Water Plumbing - What a Hose Job

Of course, new plumbing systems require new plumbing!  As always, one thing begets another.  What is both fun and work at the same time is being able to plan something from scratch, well, almost scratch. 

As with most of the restoration of Harmony, we had to tear out and replace systems.  The fresh water plumbing system was a key item on the list.  The hoses had to be run and secured before the major furniture fabrication could be started.  To do this, we needed to confirm how we wanted to manage the water flow and what equipment we needed to have where.

Since we weren't changing the general layout of the boat and its head sinks, showers, and galley sinks, we were able to concentrate on organizing the flow of the water supply and the delivery of that water to the various outlets.   We wanted to have both pressure and manual water supply options in case we lost power capabilities.  We also wanted to have both hot and cold water at the outlets, but only on the pressure supply.

Our new stainless steel water tanks - Port & Starboard Saddle tanks hold 50 gallons each and the Center tank holds 100 gallons

OK, we had installed brand new stainless steel tanks, which needed to be filled.  We would fill the main tanks via both deck fills and our 30 gph DIY Watermaker system.  However, the starboard deck fill needed to fill both the center tank and starboard saddle tank.  In order to accomplish this, I chose to use a Jabsco Y-Valve typically used for holding tank systems.

A Jabsco Y-Valve used for diverting fluid flow into one of two tanks

Yes, Harmony came with two of these beauties attached to the previously described, but removed holding tanks.  Yes, I am a frugal New Englander, BUT I did NOT even consider cleaning them bleach.  Well, at least not for too long!  Anyway, the Jabsco Y-Valve has been tested by Practical Sailor and has been found to not leak.  A brand new Y-Valve will let us switch easily between the two tanks.

The product flow from the watermaker will be plumbed into the water fill lines so that we'll be able to select which tanks to fill when making water.  We've also added a Wema tank level indicator for all tanks on-board, so we'll know what our water and fuel situation is at the press of a button.

A Wema Tank Level indicator gauge

The fresh water from the tanks will be controlled by a bronze manifold.  With this manifold, we will be able to select either one tank or all tanks to feed the system.  Therefore, if one tank becomes contaminated for any reason, we can still use the other tanks.  This manifold will also provide supply to the manual pumps located at each of 3 sinks.

Fresh Water Manifold mounted within the Galley sink island will let us easily reach the controlling valves to select a single or multiple tanks for supply

The water will be pulled from the tanks by a pressure pump that will cycle on and off depending upon whether the system requires pressure or not.  Just like a residential system, we have installed a pressure accumulator tank will should minimize the cycling of the pump.  The fresh water will be supplied to all outlets and be pushed through the hot water heater whenever hot water is required.

On the forward engine room bulkhead - Fresh Water Pressure Pump to the right and the Groco accumulator tank at the top center

We've used 1/2 inch water hose, which is the standard size.  We've chosen to use different color hose for the cold water and the hot water systems.  The cold water features a blue line, while the hot water features a red thread.  This should allow anyone to follow the plumbing and know what hose does what.  Moreover, it will allow ME to be able to connect the right hose to the right outlet!

As I mentioned at the outset, all of this hose had to be run under, through, and around the various structural components in the boat.  Additionally, the hose had to be neatly gathered and supported to not only organize it, but to ensure that the hoses did not intrude into the usable storage space or be subject to chafe. 

It would have been easy to just pull the hose throughout the boat and leave it where it was.  However, not only would that have been really messy, but the could have been unnecessarily chafed over time and what mess that would have created.  We want to have a neatly organized system of hoses and wires so that we can troubleshoot problems easily, and build a simple platform for ongoing maintenance.

Pulling the hose throughout the boat was not too much of a challenge, but the hose come coiled in a box.  The ever tightening coils can provide some wrestling antics, but some deliberate step by step effort minimizes the constriction.  However, securing the hoses neatly within spaces does requires a degree in Olympic yoga along with a younger set of muscles. 

However, the rough plumbing was installed and satisfactorily so.  The next step comes when the furniture is fabricated in the galley and the faucets are connected.  A ways still to go, but its getting close!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Raw Water Plumbing - Manifold Destiny

One of the benefits of restoring an old boat is that one gets to add his/her own sense of proper organization to the vital systems of the vessel.  While it is extremely vital to keep all water outside of the hull, certain systems require sea water to function effectively.  I've already discussed the importance of seacocks and through-hulls, but there is a critical bit of plumbing that controls and directs this sea water to those systems.

What I am describing is a raw water manifold.  While one can just plumb a seacock and hose to each system, there is an effective way to minimize the amount of holes in the hull by combining systems with a single through-hull.  Of course some equipment, notably the engine, require a dedicated raw water supply, but others are able to share.

Raw Water Strainers for the Engine (left) and other system's Manifold (right)

The systems whose raw water supply that we chose to combine into a manifold included (1) the sea water supply for the galley; (2) the deck/anchor wash; and (3) the water maker.  Since neither of these systems will be operated concurrently, there isn't any worry about starving a particular system.

We chose to plumb Harmony with bronze fittings in order to provide a very strong and solid system.  All we needed to do was combine the various fittings to direct the flow of water to the selected systems.  Similar to the engine having a dedicated raw water strainer, we plumbed a separate raw water strainer into this line.  We used approved water/exhaust hose with heavy walls and double helical wire to provide strength for the potential water pressure.  This hose is typically made by Shields is approved by the USCG and ABYC.

Raw Water Manifold to the right of the small Raw Water Strainer

Once all of the various fittings were assembled, the main challenge was to mount the manifold in an appropriate location in the engine room.  As the supported systems get installed, the appropriate hoses will be attached and run.

This manifold has allowed us to limit the amount of through-hulls in the hull.  Additionally, it has minimized the number of seacocks we need to inspect, maintain, and worry about when Harmony is in the water.

Moreover, it allows us to create what will hopefully be a very neat and organized schematic where it is easy to get lost in a confused rabbet's warren of hoses and valves.  Ah, maybe our sailing destiny will be to actually sail rather than get drained or, perhaps, hosed by an overly complicated system layout!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!