A Sea Hood - Not a Deliquent Item

One of the first things we added to Poetry's deck was a turtle hatch or in modern parlance, a sea hood.   This structure covers the sliding companionway hatch and prevents water, green or otherwise, from leaking into the cabin via the companionway hatch.  Another way to look at it, the sea hood is a garage for the companionway hatch.

Poetry's stout and secure teak turtle hatch or sea hood

On Poetry, I outdid myself and made the structure out of teak.  Roughly $800, in 1996 dollars, later we had a very nice looking and almost iron clad structure.  However, it was a real pain to keep good looking.  I mounted a canted dash onto the dodger was attached and to help direct water down onto the side decks.  It was solidly bedded and securely through-bolted to the cabin top.  It worked and continues to work after almost 20 years.

Harmony will need a new dodger, as well as a bimini.  So, before I have Sperry Sails construct the dodger, I need to consider what to do about a sea hood.  Harmony did not have one, but I had seen some nice ones on both Westsail 32's and Westsail 42's.

Harmony's companionway hatch is large and inviting to a boarding sea

However, I did not want to make it out of teak.  Firstly, the cost of such a thing would be huge, and we already have enough teak on deck to keep us busy varnishing in perpetuity!

After lengthy consideration, I decided to make the sea hood out of merranti plywood sandwiched between epoxy and glass.  This way I can have a stout structure, but build in some ease in maintenance.  I will attached a canted teak dash on its aft end in order to attached the dodger and direct boarded water off the cabin top.

The trick to this is making the sides and front mimic the angular proportions of the cabin top.  Hopefully, this will allow the sea hood to blend in and look like it is a natural part of the structure.  Beyond that the angular sides will help deflect spray and add to the structural integrity.

Canted merranti front and sides with temporary support struts (black items are shims to help maintain the proper angle for the mold)

So, I needed to fashion not just a mold, but a mold in which the main panels are the actual sides.  It was relatively easy to measure the angles of the sloped cabin sides and front.  Once the camber of deck was scribed, it was a simple task of adjusting either the sabre saw or table saw to that angle.  The front and sides were joined with temporary struts to keep the angles true and to provide an attachment for the top.


Laminated sheets of 1/4 inch merranti plywood forming the top of the sea hood

The top was constructed by laminating two sheets of 1/4 inch merranti plywood over the top.  Because of the temporary struts having been planed to the deck camber angle, the sheets of merranti took on the same camber as the deck.  The sea hood was to be attached to the deck through a 1/4 inch fiberglass sill that would be formed during the glassing of the merranti sandwich.

By screwing and bedding the sea hood with this lip, I could remove it to refinish the companionway hatch whenever necessary.  The bedding would prevent any water intrusion and, more importantly, prevent the sea hood from being ripped off by a huge boarding sea.
The construction of the sea hood has started, but will be completed over several weeks of work.  A lot of time has been spent in the early stages to ensure the lip camber and height of the sea hood fits the deck properly.

As I continue to work on this item, I will provide updates.  However, I do need to have this completed by late Spring or early Summer in order to have Sperry design a proper dodger.  So, this sea hood will not be a delinquent item, for sure.

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Refrigeration - This is Cool

While we are working towards a goal of being as self-sufficient or "off the grid" as possible, we are not willing to deny ourselves some modern efficiencies.  While boat refrigeration has been available for a long time, in some applications having none may have been a much cooler idea!

On Poetry, our 1965 Pearson Vanguard, we attempted to benefit from refrigeration.  We had used blocks of ice and were less than enthused by the results.  Since we had remodeled the outward look of the galley, we didn't want to gut the whole thing to rebuild the icebox.  While having a better insulated box is KEY to the refrigeration thing, we felt that by rebuilding the box from the outside in would give us a box the size of a thimble.  We insulated the inside and installed a Grunert unit.  While it kept the box cool (read NOT cold), it ran 24 hours a day and never cycled.  The fault was the box, not the Grunert.

On Harmony, we had the perfect opportunity to rebuild the ice box area from scratch.  We had done all of the research about how to build a well insulated box.  However, we hadn't decided which unit to install for chilling the box.  There are many good companies, but we had to first choose whether to use an evaporate with a separate compressor or an engine driven cold plate.

OK, to set the stage, Harmony will have 2 cold boxes:  one will be a refrigerator, and the other will be a freezer.  However, we want to provide ourselves with an additional option of being able to use only one box while cruising for a long weekend or a week.  This will prevent us from having to fire up both boxes every time we sail and having to corral a separate cooler sliding around the sole.  So the refrigerator box will also be able to provide a small freezer compartment.

Now, our broader objective is to live on the boat sustainably without having to run the diesel to charge the batteries every day:  an ideal situation will find us using solar and wind to replenish the amps we use in a 24 hour period.  A vital necessity is to provide refrigeration with the lowest amperage draw as possible or the lowest need for engine hours as possible.

Since we only want to run the engine for propulsion in an ideal situation, we decided that an engine driven cold plate would not work for us.  Beyond the required engine hours to freeze the cold plate, the holding plate system would not work for us when we did short cruises over the weekend or for a week or so.

So, we narrowed our choice down to an evaporator plate with a separate compressor.  We would need two, one for the refrigerator and one for the freezer.  As I mentioned before there are many quality companies that provide this type of system:  Adler-Barbour, Sea Frost, Technautics, and Frigoboat, to name a few.  We needed an efficient compressor that came with a small footprint to enable us to mount it in a convenient enclosed space near the galley.

That narrowed the choice even further, actually down to two:  Sea Frost and Frigoboat.  We went to the 2012 Newport Boat Show to do our final evaluations and talk to the companies to get their perspective.  As so often happens at the boat shows, decisions are often finalized by those who are willing to actually discuss the subject with us.  I can still not fathom why vendors will not entertain a serious discussion with someone who is literally waving money in front of them!

We casually went to the Frigoboat booth, and a very pleasant person quickly gave the show spiel, but then did something unexpected.  She directed us to another booth where she said that we could get our more specific questions answered.  OK, nothing ventured nothing gained!  We journeyed over to the Great Water Marine Systems Booth and met Kathy Groh:  remember the hot water heater person!

Kathy was very helpful, as she listened to our prospective design ideas.  She offered her own perspectives and gave us a couple of options.  In a later discussion or what I can label as a design meeting, we finalized our choice.  We will use the Frigoboat keel cooler models for both boxes.
The refrigerator box will house a small bin shaped evaporator that will handle the chilling duties, but will also provide a small freezer for short cruises.  We will only have to fire this box up during our short cruises. 
The freezer box will house an evaporator panel and give us frozen food storage for the longer cruises.  The two compressors will fit perfectly under the salon berth just forward of the where the two boxes will be.
With between 3 to 4 inches of foam insulation, the reefer box will draw less than 1.0 amp an hour, while the freezer will less than 1.4 amps per hour.  As a combined system, the hourly amperage draw will be between 2.0 and 2.5.  Compared to what we have experienced before, this is miserly.  On top of that the compressors will be relatively quiet in operation.

Now, this is cool!  Even with giving ourselves the luxury of refrigeration, we will still be able to maintain a relatively small power usage footprint.  This should go a long way toward allowing the combined solar and wind power sources to supply the charging capacity we need in a 24 hour period.  More on this when we get near to building the boxes and installing the units!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Boat Heaters - A Hot Topic

One of the challenges we have faced during our cruising adventures is that our vessels have not had a good source for heat when the temperatures get colder.  Hence, we have always opted to end our sailing season in early Fall.  While the crisp fall air is lovely, being comfortable sleeping in 40 degree temperatures certainly turns pleasure into an ordeal.  Heating clay flower pots on a stovetop is not exactly efficient, effective, or safe!

Beth and I sail with our adorable Bichon, Annabelle.  While Beth and I can don wool caps and wrap ourselves in a warm sleeping bags, little Annabelle isn't a sleeping bag diva.  Beyond our concern for Annabelle, we don't really enjoy on-board winter expedition camping.

Of course, it's not just the cold temps in the Fall that can be a challenge.  There are many a damp and raw day during our general sailing season that having a reliable and safe heating source is a great benefit.  Sailing the coast of Maine in the summer can be made more comfortable with a nice dry and warm cabin.  Moreover, being a "snowbird" and cruising down the ICW or the Atlantic coast often requires a warm cabin.  Even if we were to contemplate living aboard in a marina, we would need a better heat source than a 1500 watt AC baseboard unit.

So, what to do?  There are several options available:  diesel, propane, solid fuel, alcohol, and electric.  Consistent with our objectives for cruising Harmony, we want to be as environmental responsible as possible, as simply effective as possible, and safe as possible.  Given those guidelines, we can narrow down our choices to either diesel or propane because we will be carrying those fuels on-board, they are the most efficient, and offer the least impact to the environment in which we sail. 

Our installation is complicated by the fact that Harmony has two cabin areas to heat:  the salon/dinette area and the aft cabin in which we sleep.  We will need either 2 heaters or a very good system for circulating air between the fore and aft sections of the boat.  Additional challenges exist for locating the exhaust chimneys, as on-deck hardware may interfere with the placement of a suitable "Charley Noble".
On the diesel side of the ledger, heaters can be divided into forced hot air blowers and small stove-like burners.  Forced hot air furnaces, notably Espar and Webasto, supply heated air into the various compartments of the boat via ductwork run through and under the berths.  They are generally expensive at $5,000 plus installed and finicky about clean fuel.  However, they generally can heat and dry out a boat very well.  Diesel stove-like burners, like the Dickinson heaters, are stationary radiant heat sources in cabins.  They are relatively inexpensive at $1,000 installed and provide a significant amount of btu's.
Propane heaters are generally wall mounted units that radiate heat, but produce less btu's than a diesel unit.  Propane units can be a closed system using an air supply from out side of the boat or an open flame unit which uses inside cabin oxygen.  The latter offers more risk from oxygen depletion and fire.  Propane gas has it own safety risk by being heavier than air, but this can be minimized by installing gas leak detectors.  However, a propane heater will use propane quite quickly:  from a low setting at 1 pound over 7 hours to 1 pound over 3+ hours at high.  Propane heaters are relatively inexpensive at $1,000 installed.
Since we will have both diesel and propane on-board we have choices.  Due to the expense and required space of a diesel hot air furnace system, we have decided against either an Espar or Webasto heater.  We like the ease of installation and convenience of a closed propane system like the Dickenson P9000 or P12000 units.  However, we are concerned that we'll be filling propane tanks all the time between heating and cooking.  We like the heat output and fuel efficiency of the diesel cabin heaters, but are concerned with where to put the chimneys and how to effectively heat both cabin areas.

We have consulted the trusty Westsail Owners Association and the recommendations run the gamut of choices we listed above.  As soon as we feel we have narrowed our choice, we waver and need to tack.  Fortunately, we don't have to make a decision now.  However, we will need to make a decision at some point.

The biggest issue right now is the location of the chimney, particularly in the salon.  Our staysail track runs right over the best area for a chimney for either the propane or diesel unit.  We are considering replacing our staysail boom with a roller furler and that change could eliminate the port/starboard staysail track.  If so, we would have a clear cabin top for the chimney.

So, this topic remains on the burner.  We are satisfied that whatever choice we make we'll be warm and the least impactful to our cruising world.  Our preference is for the diesel cabin heaters because of the fuel simplicity, heat output, and overall efficiency. I guess its time to put another log on the fire, so to speak!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Shower Plumbng - I'm in Hot Water Now

One of the creature comforts that Beth is looking forward to on Harmony is on board showers.  Yes, the in-cockpit Sun Shower fed showers on Poetry were a wonderful way to end the day.  However, we both lack the exhibition gene and the efforts we each took to practice proper decorum while bathing in the cockpit more often than not made the actual cleaning process somewhat difficult!

On Harmony, we'll have a shower in the forward head:  what a luxury.  To fuel that shower, we'll also have pressure hot and cold water.  To get cold water is a fairly easy feed from the on-board water tanks:  remember those brand new beauties!  However, like most domestic household applications, the hot water will have to come from an on-board hot water heater.

When we bought Harmony, she had an old Raritan 6 gallon hot water heater.  These are generally very suitable units, but they can develop leaks over time no matter how well they are winterized.  Well, the Raritan unit on Harmony had succumbed to the leakage of age.  We needed a new hot water heater.

Our old Raritan 6 Gallon Water Heater - it developed a leak and needed to go

OK, which size and make to choose?  These hot water heaters can be operated on 110 volts AC or be plumbed into the engine's cooling system.  We will have both options open to us for the few times we'll find ourselves in a marina slip.

We could fit a larger than 6 gallon unit, but did we really need to.  The more water to heat the longer it takes to heat and that means more electricity or a longer engine run time.  Since we wanted to minimize engine run time for economy and environmental responsibility, we chose to stick with the 6 gallon size.  Besides, with the engine running it shouldn't take longer than 15 to 20 minutes to have abundantly hot water.

Now, what brand to get?  The Raritan units can be somewhat of a standard, but a trolling through the life supporting marine catalogs offers a veritable plethora of options.  We wanted one that would have longevity, have superior insulation, and be relatively free from operational problems.

After a thorough review of the internet, the several sailing blogs and networks, and our own Westsail Owners Association, we had narrowed our choices down.  After our discussions at the Newport Boat Show, we had made our decision.  Our friendly marine refrigeration expert, Kathy Groh from Great Water Marine Systems, had spent time discussing the Isotemp hot water heaters with us.

Based on its all stainless steel construction and excellent insulation, we chose to go with a 6 gallon unit.  Kathy had a show model with an invisible dent that she let us have for a bargain price:  no brainer!  The Isotemp will be able to hold the water temperature for up to 35+ hours.  This will allow for Beth and me to each have a shower and there to be water left over for other purposes.

The Isotemp hot water heater installed on Harmony

The Isotemp in its Port side nook in the engine room

The installation of the Isotemp 6 gallon unit couldn't have been easier.  I used 4 through bolts through its solid base.  All I had to do then was connect the plumbing hoses and a by-pass for winterizing.  It fit perfectly in the engine room.

For one of the few times in my life, I am perfectly content to be in hot water!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Shrinkage - Not a Big Deal

Alright, because we choose to base our nautical adventures in New England and Marion, MA, to be precise, consideration for winter storage is an important component in the annual maintenance process.  The choices range from doing nothing, blue poly tarps, shrink-wrap, and canvas covers.  Now, I didn't mention inside storage, because that often eliminates the possibility of DIY work.

Doing nothing is certainly easy at first.  However, the boat is subject to all of the harshness of the New England weather:  rain, snow, sleet, etc.  While easy and cheap at the onset, this method begets much more maintenance in the Spring.

While/blue poly tarps, a ubiquitous feature of many northeast boat yard in the past, has been eliminated from consideration because of one major problem.  There are many instances where the tarp has split and become a huge sail that threatened to pull the boat off its jack stands in a storm.  Not good for the boat or the neighboring boats!

The main choice is between shrink-wrap and custom canvas covers.  Shrink-wrap is usually an annual solution, although some folks are able to extend the life of the cover for another year:  incredible effort for questionable return.  Canvas covers custom designed for the boat generally last for at least 10 years, although fastidious care can push the life out to 15 years.

White shrink-wrap covers on the boats stored around Harmony

Shrink-wrap is either clear, blue, or white, and is very strong when shrunk.  However, it is not breathable and the installation requires several ventilation holes.  Moisture from the air and water left in the bilges is usually retained inside and can sometimes lead to mold and mildew.  In some cases this lack of ventilation can damage the gel-coat and painted surfaces.  This product can be recycled, but both the boat owner and the boat yard management need to be make the effort to recycle and not just stuff the plastic into the dumpster in the Spring.  The annual cost for shrink-wrapping a boat can fall within the $3.00 to $4.00 a foot range, but some services can do so for much less.

Canvas covers are cover the boat similarly to shrink-wrap, but the canvas breathes naturally and strategically placed vent holes do a great job of providing ventilation.  Gelcoat and painted surface damage is usually not a concern.  While similar in purpose and results to a shrink-wrap cover, the canvas cover can be reused for many years and is made of a natural material.  However, the initial cost of the cover can be 3X or 4X the cost of an annual shrink-wrap cover.

We've used an annual shrink-wrap cover on Poetry for many years, but we wanted to take a different tack for Harmony.  Directionally, we've taken a significant environmentally responsible focus with how we'll operate Harmony:  composting heads, LED lights, renewable energy sources, etc.  We now needed to decide how to effectively cover Harmony during the winter months.  With the exception of the initial cost, the decision was a natural no brainer:  Canvas.

The Canvas Cover on Harmony - custom sewn by Sperry Sailmakers

To shrink-wrap Harmony, we would generally spend about $1,500 a year.  We priced out canvas covers and we found we could spend between $4,500 and $6,500 on a well made cover.  That means that we would break even in roughly 3 to 4 years.  These covers last about 10 years, so the financial decision was fairly easy.  In the long run we would save up to $6,500 in overall maintenance costs.  Yes, we would have to care for the cover ourselves, but isn't that what life is about anyway.

Voluminous access door at the stern

Great, we chose our sail maker Sperry Sails because of their quality, convenience, and price.  They did a great job, and their design provide us with great access to the boat while covered and wonderful space under the cover to do routine maintenance while covered. 

Standing head room space for on deck maintenance

Yes it was a big check to write, but we are happy with the decision, and our environmentally responsible efforts are kept in place.

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Fresh Water Plumbing - What a Hose Job

Of course, new plumbing systems require new plumbing!  As always, one thing begets another.  What is both fun and work at the same time is being able to plan something from scratch, well, almost scratch. 

As with most of the restoration of Harmony, we had to tear out and replace systems.  The fresh water plumbing system was a key item on the list.  The hoses had to be run and secured before the major furniture fabrication could be started.  To do this, we needed to confirm how we wanted to manage the water flow and what equipment we needed to have where.

Since we weren't changing the general layout of the boat and its head sinks, showers, and galley sinks, we were able to concentrate on organizing the flow of the water supply and the delivery of that water to the various outlets.   We wanted to have both pressure and manual water supply options in case we lost power capabilities.  We also wanted to have both hot and cold water at the outlets, but only on the pressure supply.

Our new stainless steel water tanks - Port & Starboard Saddle tanks hold 50 gallons each and the Center tank holds 100 gallons

OK, we had installed brand new stainless steel tanks, which needed to be filled.  We would fill the main tanks via both deck fills and our 30 gph DIY Watermaker system.  However, the starboard deck fill needed to fill both the center tank and starboard saddle tank.  In order to accomplish this, I chose to use a Jabsco Y-Valve typically used for holding tank systems.

A Jabsco Y-Valve used for diverting fluid flow into one of two tanks

Yes, Harmony came with two of these beauties attached to the previously described, but removed holding tanks.  Yes, I am a frugal New Englander, BUT I did NOT even consider cleaning them bleach.  Well, at least not for too long!  Anyway, the Jabsco Y-Valve has been tested by Practical Sailor and has been found to not leak.  A brand new Y-Valve will let us switch easily between the two tanks.

The product flow from the watermaker will be plumbed into the water fill lines so that we'll be able to select which tanks to fill when making water.  We've also added a Wema tank level indicator for all tanks on-board, so we'll know what our water and fuel situation is at the press of a button.

A Wema Tank Level indicator gauge

The fresh water from the tanks will be controlled by a bronze manifold.  With this manifold, we will be able to select either one tank or all tanks to feed the system.  Therefore, if one tank becomes contaminated for any reason, we can still use the other tanks.  This manifold will also provide supply to the manual pumps located at each of 3 sinks.

Fresh Water Manifold mounted within the Galley sink island will let us easily reach the controlling valves to select a single or multiple tanks for supply

The water will be pulled from the tanks by a pressure pump that will cycle on and off depending upon whether the system requires pressure or not.  Just like a residential system, we have installed a pressure accumulator tank will should minimize the cycling of the pump.  The fresh water will be supplied to all outlets and be pushed through the hot water heater whenever hot water is required.

On the forward engine room bulkhead - Fresh Water Pressure Pump to the right and the Groco accumulator tank at the top center

We've used 1/2 inch water hose, which is the standard size.  We've chosen to use different color hose for the cold water and the hot water systems.  The cold water features a blue line, while the hot water features a red thread.  This should allow anyone to follow the plumbing and know what hose does what.  Moreover, it will allow ME to be able to connect the right hose to the right outlet!

As I mentioned at the outset, all of this hose had to be run under, through, and around the various structural components in the boat.  Additionally, the hose had to be neatly gathered and supported to not only organize it, but to ensure that the hoses did not intrude into the usable storage space or be subject to chafe. 

It would have been easy to just pull the hose throughout the boat and leave it where it was.  However, not only would that have been really messy, but the could have been unnecessarily chafed over time and what mess that would have created.  We want to have a neatly organized system of hoses and wires so that we can troubleshoot problems easily, and build a simple platform for ongoing maintenance.

Pulling the hose throughout the boat was not too much of a challenge, but the hose come coiled in a box.  The ever tightening coils can provide some wrestling antics, but some deliberate step by step effort minimizes the constriction.  However, securing the hoses neatly within spaces does requires a degree in Olympic yoga along with a younger set of muscles. 

However, the rough plumbing was installed and satisfactorily so.  The next step comes when the furniture is fabricated in the galley and the faucets are connected.  A ways still to go, but its getting close!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Raw Water Plumbing - Manifold Destiny

One of the benefits of restoring an old boat is that one gets to add his/her own sense of proper organization to the vital systems of the vessel.  While it is extremely vital to keep all water outside of the hull, certain systems require sea water to function effectively.  I've already discussed the importance of seacocks and through-hulls, but there is a critical bit of plumbing that controls and directs this sea water to those systems.

What I am describing is a raw water manifold.  While one can just plumb a seacock and hose to each system, there is an effective way to minimize the amount of holes in the hull by combining systems with a single through-hull.  Of course some equipment, notably the engine, require a dedicated raw water supply, but others are able to share.

Raw Water Strainers for the Engine (left) and other system's Manifold (right)

The systems whose raw water supply that we chose to combine into a manifold included (1) the sea water supply for the galley; (2) the deck/anchor wash; and (3) the water maker.  Since neither of these systems will be operated concurrently, there isn't any worry about starving a particular system.

We chose to plumb Harmony with bronze fittings in order to provide a very strong and solid system.  All we needed to do was combine the various fittings to direct the flow of water to the selected systems.  Similar to the engine having a dedicated raw water strainer, we plumbed a separate raw water strainer into this line.  We used approved water/exhaust hose with heavy walls and double helical wire to provide strength for the potential water pressure.  This hose is typically made by Shields is approved by the USCG and ABYC.

Raw Water Manifold to the right of the small Raw Water Strainer

Once all of the various fittings were assembled, the main challenge was to mount the manifold in an appropriate location in the engine room.  As the supported systems get installed, the appropriate hoses will be attached and run.

This manifold has allowed us to limit the amount of through-hulls in the hull.  Additionally, it has minimized the number of seacocks we need to inspect, maintain, and worry about when Harmony is in the water.

Moreover, it allows us to create what will hopefully be a very neat and organized schematic where it is easy to get lost in a confused rabbet's warren of hoses and valves.  Ah, maybe our sailing destiny will be to actually sail rather than get drained or, perhaps, hosed by an overly complicated system layout!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

New Stanchions - Helpful Friends

When we were ferreting out the myriad of water leaks, the 4 stanchions that formed the boarding gates on the port and starboard sides were likely culprits.  As we already described, Beth and I applied matrimonial science to solve the re-bedding process.  However, as we were to discover later, these were only a small part of the problem.

Aft Gate Stanchion on Starboard Side

The real issue with these stanchions was that they were broken and presented a safety hazard.  Unfortunately, the gate support was "attached" to the stanchion by a tube that slid over the main stanchion.  While this design provided some lateral support, it really served to create an extreme area of stress and material fatigue on the main stanchion. 

Aft Gate Stanchion on Port Side - notice the bent stanchion

Over the years the stanchion would flex around the gate support tube and bend.  Furthermore, the gate support would flex and its weld points would fracture.  This is what had happened, and all four gate stanchions were severely deformed and exhibited stress fractures on all gate supports.  If anyone fell against the lifeline or the gate stanchions, while at sea, the stanchions would most likely fail.  This risk would turn up in a thorough survey and confine Harmony to "port risk" until fixed.


Forward Gate Stanchion on Port Side - notice the severe deformation at the lateral support where the tube slides over the stanchion


We needed to replace those four stanchions.  While we were at it, we would re-bed all of the stanchions which were through-bolted to the bulwarks.  We would also install bronze mid-ship cleats to match the bow and stern cleats.  I contacted Bud Talpin, of Worldcruiser Yacht Company, and the living Westsail legend whose expertise supports all of us Westsail owners.  Bud was able to get the new stanchions made and shipped to us for a very reasonable price.

These new stanchions featured a welded gate support which would eliminate all of the design flaws of the old stanchions.  However, I did have to invest a significant amount of time measuring, re-measuring, and, then, measure again to make sure I had the right fit.  When the stanchions arrived there was a slight amount of "customization" I needed to do because the bolt holes were not a complete match:  par for the course.

I was able to remove the old stanchions and make whatever customization I needed.  I was also able to install the bronze mid-ships cleats just aft of the hawse holes/deck drains.  However, I needed to assistance of another set of hands to mount the new stanchions and re-bed the others.  My good friend, Paul, who along with his wife Abbie, had become the new owners of our beloved Poetry, came down from Maine to give me a helpful hand.

Somehow, when two friends combine to work with one on-deck and the other below deck, the process works a lot smoother than when husband and wife do the same thing.  Very interesting to say the least.  Perhaps that matrimonial passion clouds the senses, and male bonding is like a cloudless sky?  Whatever! 

We were able to get all of the stanchions installed in short order.  It was very satisfying to have a friend down to share some team work and mutual support.  Paul's help was tremendous and when Beth and I walk the deck in seaway, we'll be reminded that his friendship is very much like those stanchions:  providing solid support and a lifeline when we need it.

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

The New Shower - Pan Pan Pan

One of the luxuries of Harmony that Beth is looking forward to is being able to take a shower inside the boat.  Our showers on Poetry consisted of SunShowers in the cockpit.  While certainly refreshing on a hot day and a wonderful use of solar energy to heat water, the shower experience was less than spectacular for modest people.

We would fold up the cockpit cushions to provide a little privacy, string the 5 gallon SunShower from the boom, and sit in the cockpit well in a bathing suit for the shower.  Since our mooring was right on the main harbor channel, we always felt a little uncomfortable about giving a "show".  Yes, it was great on a hot summer afternoon after a long day of sailing.  However, the SunShower only worked in the sun and if you filled the back with a tea kettle's worth of boiling water, you could get only a tepid shower.

In Marion we always have the option of going ashore to use the public showers.  These are actually very nice, as the Marion Harbormaster and his team keep them clean.  Between $0.50 and $1.00 for a very nice hot shower is not too bad.  As we conceived the Harmony project, we wanted to remain as independent (i.e. off the grid) as possible, and as environmentally responsible or efficient as possible.

While the public showers will work in a pinch, we believe using our own on-board shower will use less water and will use water we make ourselves from the ocean.  Harmony was originally constructed with a shower in the forward head.  However, when we took ownership, it was in need of serious work.  The plumbing was basically gone and the very small shower pan drained into the bilge:  NOT a good situation.

The space for the original shower pan in the forward head

We did not want soap, hair, and other indelicacies to slime up our bilge.  The bilge is a bad enough place without all of that soap scum coagulating.  So we had a relatively blank slate to work with, although the size and configuration of the forward head offered some limitations.

The relatively small original shower pan (white thing in center of picture) in the salon amongst other casualties of demolition

We chose to remove the original shower pan, which was easier thought of than done.  I had to remove the teak and holly sole first, and then pry up the fiberglass shower pan.  Once out, this left an inconvenient hole in the sole of the forward head.  However, it was now easier to clean the forward bilge and install the proper shower drainage sump.  After much consideration, we chose the Whale Gulley IC system.

The is a nifty "intelligent" shower pump system.  There is no sump, but instead the drain automatically detects the water level which activates the pump.  The pump, which pumps at about 5 gallons per minute can be mounted under the head vanity to allow easy maintenance and connection to the head sink drain:  double up on an existing hole in the hull.  As nifty as it is, we will have to be careful to monitor its electrical circuit, as any water spilled into the shower pan will cycle the pump.  Thankfully there is a built in check valve to prevent seepage back into the drain.

I took copious measurements in order to fabricate a new shower pan to fit the sole area.  This new design will place the shower pan in the center of the head sole and the drain hole was placed in the aft area, as the head sole cants aft.  The shower well is roughly 4 inches deep allowing for enough space for water collection and enough gap to not touch the hull sides under the sole.

New Shower Pan showing shape of forward head's sole and teak frame around the shower well.  Drain hole is in the aft area of the head's sole.

To not have a gaping hole in the head sole, I made a teak grating that fits into the frame of the well.  Once installed, a new head sole will be made of 3/4 inch teak and holly, which will not only match the look of the rest of the boat's sole, but provide enough strength to support the shower pan.

Teak Grate fitted into the teak frame covers the shower well and offers a bit of nautical ambiance, if not practical usefulness

While our showers on Harmony won't last any longer or use any more water than the SunShower system on Poetry, it will be private and available anytime.  An added advantage is that we can still use the SunShower, if necessary, through the overhead hatch!  Having both options just adds to the luxury and privacy we'll experience.

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Sound Proofing - Keep the Soundown

When we first examined Harmony prior to purchase, we knew that the old engine had been removed.  However, what we were not prepared for was the state of the "empty" engine room.  What a mess!  There was debris everywhere, engine viscera and fluids coagulating in the engine pan, and decaying soundproofing hanging off the bulkheads.

The "before" with accumulated engine room debris

The engine room clean up has been discussed earlier, but we needed to consider how to reduce the racket that would come from the future operating engine room.  The old soundproofing was an age old product that combined open cell foam, lead, and a foil cover.  Effective in its time, but now it was in a state of yuck.  After wrestling with the cumbersome lead filled blankets, I was able to remove the whole of it.

So, now what to do?  After researching the various products on the market, and speaking to several company representatives at the Newport Boat Show, we chose the Soundown sound proofing product.  We could easily obtain it from Jamestown Distributors and it was the most cost effective product for us.  Yes, there may be better products for longevity, but for the dollar value the Soundown product fit the bill.

A sample of Soundown insulation

Since this product is a mylar covered open cell foam sandwiching with a vinyl sheet, we needed to be thorough in sealing the foam edges with mylar tape to mitigate moisture absorption.  Obviously, we needed to keep the engine room dry, too.  Once the new engine installation is completed, the access panel in the cockpit sole will be tightly caulked and sealed.

In order to neatly organize all systems in the engine room on the bulkheads, we needed to encapsulate the Soundown behind panels on which we would mount equipment.  After some consideration, we chose 3/4 inch merranti plywood which would be edge-sealed and painted white.  These panels would be mounted on 1.5 inch through-bolted mahogany studs in between which we would install the Soundown.

While this would intrude into the engine room space by about 2.25 inches on the fore and aft bulkheads, what we lost in space we would gain in neatly organized systems that could be inspected, serviced, and replaced easily.  The white paneling would help brighten up the engine room when work needed to be done.

Aft Bulkhead panel installed over the Soundown - we'll mount the water maker here

After milling the 1.5 inch square mahogany studs, the primary challenge was to cut the Soundown to the right shapes and adhere it to the existing bulkheads.  The second challenge was to fit the 3/4 inch panels into the space, remembering that I had to fit said panels down through the companion way.  The old adage of measure twice cut once, was employed often.  The Soundown and merranti plywood was worth a few boat dollars!

Although the entire project took a few weeks to complete with measuring, cutting, painting, and installing, all went well with the installation.  This part of the project dealt with the fore and aft bulkheads, and once the engine install has been completed, the port and starboard sides, as well as the underneath of the cockpit sole will be covered.

The Port Side of the Forward Engine Room Bulkhead with some systems installed

The Starboard Side of the Forward Engine Room Bulkhead

The Soundown was very easy to work with.  However, the key to maintaining its effectiveness is to ensure a very good seal of its edges.  Having the substantial paneling in the engine room helps us organize everything and will provide a platform to maintain a neat and orderly engine room.

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

Davits - Our Hang Ups Exposed

One of the decisional cul-de-sacs that had repeatedly made us dizzy involved what to do with dinghy storage on Harmony.  While on Poetry, we always towed our dinghy behind the boat whenever we left the mooring for an overnight trip.  However, towing the dinghy was never really optimal, either for sailing or for the nerves.

Poetry, a 1965 Pearson Vanguard, on her mooring with inflatable dinghy tied astern

On Harmony, we had more deck space and the original drawings of the boat always showed a dinghy neatly stored upside down on the aft cabin.  That would be nice, but the dinghy needed to be really small.  We had seen some dinghies stored on the foredeck under the staysail boom, but that could significantly limited on-deck mobility.

So, this conundrum considered both how to store the dingy and what type of dinghy to have!  We have always used an inflatable dinghy.  Why?  Well, it was easier to transport to and from the boat when we needed bring it home, and it deflated and rolled up for potential on-deck storage.  However, these  "boats" were essentially inflated donuts and they rowed like what was in our holding tanks!

Enter the hard dinghy.  Oh, some of them look so traditionally nautical and they row nicely"  Dyer Dink, Fatty Knees, and the nesting home-built ones to name a few.  However, we'd need a trailer because I couldn't lift any of them on top of the car.  I didn't have time to build a nesting dinghy.  And, the goodness of their rigidity made on-deck storage more challenging:  not impossible, but challenging.

After much thought, our choice was facilitated by our decision to mount solar panels on a pair of davits on the stern.  So, we chose a rigid inflatable for perhaps the best of both worlds.  For off-shore voyages, the boat will deflate and store easily on deck.  For coastal cruises, we secure it on the davits.  So, now we needed to pick a davit system.

After much pondering and some inquiries, we chose Kato Marine davits.  First of all we needed a custom application because of the Westsail 42's canoe stern.  Secondly, we did not want to add an arch, but instead keep the existing stern pulpit.  We narrowed our selection to 2 companies, and Kato Marine was chosen for 2 main reasons.  Number 1, their fabrication design, quality and strength were impressive.  Number 2, they wanted our business and they were more than helpful in designing our rig.

After making careful measurements and taking photos from several attitudes, I sent all the info to Kato Marine.  In a few weeks time, we got our delivery of the system.  The components were beautifully made and finished.  With very clear instructions, I was able to install them in an afternoon.

Kato Marine Davits installed under the Winter Canvas Cover

Final adjustments and tweaks will have to wait until the Spring.  We will need to install a stabilizer bar and make sure the blocking and alignment are an exact fit to our inflatable.  Oh, that's right we'll need to buy that by then, as well!  Yep, just a few more boat dollars!  At that point, we'll be ready to install the solar panels, too.

We were very satisfied with our decision on all accounts:  davits and dinghy type.  We'll discuss our which dinghy we go with in a later post.  Kato Marine was absolutely wonderful to deal with, and we highly recommend them.

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

The New Salon Berth - Seating Reborn

As I uncovered the damage done to the galley, I noticed that the dry rot had migrated into the starboard salon furniture and berth.  This included the shelving unit above the berth below.  Fortunately, the damaged areas were essentially limited to the exposed plywood, although I found some rotted ends of the teak ceiling.

Starboard Salon Seat - shelf bottom and ceiling removed to the hull

OK, what to do?  Well, as I looked at the berth design, I was not overly impressed with the way the berth provided seating support for one's back.  If you sat on the starboard berth, you would almost fall back into a full reclined position.  Without big bulky cushions, the starboard would be total unworkable AND be a lousy sea berth.

After a few sessions of just looking and thinking, I came up with a very simple retro fit.  First the rotted shelf bottom would be removed and used as a template for a new bottom.  This shelf bottom would extend out beyond the cabinet front by a few inches to met a sloping back of the new berth back.  Within the berth back would be extra storage space.  The berth itself would be slightly reduced to form a comfortable seat, but, more importantly, a secure sea berth.

I was able to procure some sapele striped mahogany plywood from Boulter Plywood, and using some extra merranti plywood for internal supports the framework came together nicely.  I installed new insulation on the hull, and used Reflectix for that purpose:  the Reflectix obtained at either Home Depot or Lowes provides a suitable radiant heat barrier and an R factor of about 3.5 to 4.0 when doubled up.

New Starboard Salon Berth with Reflectix insulation and ceiling

With storage being provided behind the berth back, I needed to construct hatches for access.  I didn't want hinged cupboards which would be uncomfortable to lean back on.  Even though the seat back was canted back about 15 degrees for comfort, I needed the hatches to stay put.  Drawing from some traditional woodworking, I made mahogany pins for the back of the hatches.  These pins apply enough pressure on the seat back to hold the hatch panel in its space within the seat back.

The openings and hatches were made of sapele mahogany trimmed in teak .  When the final finish is applied there will be 5 coats of varnish.  However, the teak trim will be glossy with the main panels being done in either hand rubbed or satin vanish.

As it is getting into Fall, and I would like to save some travel time going back and forth from New Hampshire to Marion, MA, I need to be able to use the berth for sleeping.  I am sure I will get that chance in October.  With the sun setting earlier, I need as much working time as possible

Finished Starboard Salon Berth - access panel hatches have been removed and new seat mahogany seat front trim was added

The berth is done with the exception of plugging the screw holes and finish varnishing.  That will be a task for next year, I am sure.  I am very happy with the outcome, and it feels real good to actually build something back up rather than to continue to tear something out!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

New Seacocks & Through Hulls - The Hole Enchilada

A crucial system on any boat is the raw water (i.e. sea water) control system.  While this s not a system per se, it is an interconnected series of valves, fittings, and hoses that allow sea water to flow into and out of the boat, but, more importantly, tat keep sea water from flowing into the boat's bilges!  As a friend once said, "those holes in the bottom of the boat are water let'er inners NOT water let'er outers"!

Various pieces of equipment use salt water or raw water to function.  Marine heads typically use sea water to flush.  Galley sinks can use sea water to help rinse dishes.  The engine uses sea water to keep it within proper operating temperatures.  Even refrigeration can use sea water to dissipate heat.  The key issue is to control the flow of that sea water:  to let it in and out when it is needed, and keep it out when not.

A hole below the waterline in a boat can emit a tremendous amount of water into the boat.  The displacement of the boat forces the boat down in the water column while an open hole under water allows the displaced water to go through that hole at a furious rate.  So, it is important to be able to close off that hole when the water is not needed.

OK, the controlling mechanisms are seacocks.  Seacocks are valves that when connected to threaded through-hull fittings create a solid unit for either letting sea water in and out, and, as important, keeping sea water out.  Without getting too technical, appropriate seacocks are designed with either tapered plugs or ball valves. 
Both work quite well and each has their share of proponents.

When Harmony was constructed, she had bronze tapered plug seacocks installed.  There were at least 7 seacocks or holes below the water line:  2 cockpit drains, 2 holes for the forward head, 1 for the forward head sink, 1 for the engine, and 1 for the aft head.  In some cases a sea cock had multiple items plumbed into it, and this presented some safety concerns.  Moreover, after years of neglect, these tapered plug seacocks had become either frozen open or closed.

In order to ensure the integrity and safety of the raw water system on Harmony, we decided to replace all seacocks with new bronze ball valve seacocks.  We also chose to eliminate unnecessary through-hulls and simplify the overall plumbing.  We chose Groco seacocks and through-hulls because of their quality and because they feature stainless steel balls rather than chromed brass ball valves.

Since we had chosen to use composting heads, we could eliminate at least 3 through-hull fittings.  GREAT!  Than meant we only had one seacock, the forward head sink, outside of the engine room.  This would narrow the search for leaks if a through-hull connection ever failed.  We could clean-up the myriad of connections on each through-hull and increase the system's integrity.

Removal promised to be quite a chore since the existing through-hull fittings and seacocks could not be easily disassembled:  you know big wrench turned by huge biceps, which I lack!  Not to mention the fact that whatever had been used to bed the fittings took its job very seriously!  So, I simple took a Dremel tool and cut quadrants through the  external mushroom head of the through-hull and, because the bronze was malleable, I pried the mushroom head off.  After that the seacock and threaded piece of the through-hull spun easily out.

The new seacocks were installed on backing blocks I had cut from 1/2 inch solid fiberglass.  This added an extra amount of strength to the assembly.  These seacock were through bolted and the through-hull screwed into the seacock.  Once I started the process and refined my technique, I was able to remove and install all of the fittings with about 2 full days of effort.

I bedded the through-hulls in 3M 4200 so that I can remove them later if necessary.  I replaced all existing hoses with new and appropriate hoses.  All that is left to do is to attach an appropriate sized plug to each seacock to use in case of failure.

Harmony's Engine Room Port Side Seacocks - clockwise from bottom of picture - 3/4" water maker supply, 1 1/2" cockpit drain, 1 1/2" engine raw water

Well, to do the right job did entail a few boat dollars of investment, and a thorough study of a great website:  www.pbase.com/mainecruising.  This site has an abundance of information and expertly diagramed techniques related to boat systems and their installation and maintenance. 

Beth and I will be able to sleep soundly knowing that all through-hulls are robust and secure.  I am sure the insurance company will be happy, too!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!

A Watermaker - Are we All Wet!

Alright, our interest in a water making system was certainly piqued at the Newport Boat Show.  The potential simplicity and ease of operation of the system offered by DIY Watermakers make our consideration very serious.  So, why would we need a water maker when our sailing plans contemplate mostly coastal voyages?

Well, one of the elements of sailing, cruising, or voyaging that we really value is the self-reliance it requires.  Additionally, we like to be relatively off the grid and independent with respect to "having" to go to the dock or "having" someone come out to us for anything.  Now, we're not "doomsday preppers" or kooks longing for solitary existence.  But we want to be able to handle most of our needs by ourselves.

Having a water making system would offer several benefits to us.  First, we would always have control over the quality of the water we have in our tanks.  Second, we would be able to generate enough water for all of our needs without having to make repeated trips to the dock to fill our 200 gallon tanks.  Third, if we were to ever be able to take a cruise to the "islands", it would be imperative to have our own clean water supply.

In normal situations, one goes to the "main" dock or marina to fill empty water tanks.  This water usually is from a relatively reliable municipal water supply, but sits in hoses until it reaches the one's deck fills.  Once in the boat's tanks, the "new" water must be sanitized with a variety of chemicals.  In outlying areas or the "islands", the water may be sourced from some very questionable sources.

For us, the process of bring Harmony into the dock involves a lot of work for 2 people.  And that is in calm conditions.  Yes, we have a bow thruster, but the Westsail 42 is a big and beamy boat with a 4+ foot bow sprit and it can be nerve wracking.  To exert the effort for a 20 minute water fill may not be the best use of time and energy.

When we move onto Harmony we will have the luxury of pressure water, hot water showers, and multiple sinks.  Our previous boat, Poetry, was fitted out with 1 manual water pump and no internal shower.  Not that we want to be wasteful, but we do want to move beyond a camping-like existence on-board.  We really want to entertain friends and family on-board without subjecting them to an overdone scarcity environment.  Being able to replenish our water supplies while either at anchor or underway makes life aboard less limiting and increases the overall comfort level.

Yes, our primary cruising voyages will be coastal.  We won't be crossing oceans.  However, we do have a desire to take at least one trip south the Caribbean Islands.  While we'll certainly have to go ashore to clear customs and enjoy the cultures, we do want to be somewhat independent from island water supplies. 

OK, we could dinghy ashore with our multitude of 5 gallon containers and make the repeated trek back and forth.  Let's see, 200 gallons divided by 5 equals 40.  Each 5 gallon container weighs about 40 pounds. It won't take long for the back and forth to get old!

So, there are a lot of advantages and "luxuries" associated with the having a water maker system.  There are also costs and complexities.  It is certainly cheaper and simpler to take a container to a well or plug a hose into the deck fill.  For us, the decision is less about the cost and more about the quality of the life we'll live aboard.  This is not to say that we are not frugal:  heck, we are New Englanders who have relatively simple tastes.

Since the Newport Boat Show, we have discussed this topic almost endlessly.  I think we have convinced ourselves of the efficacy of having a water maker.  Now, we need to invest a bit of effort researching our options, because we don't want to find ourselves all wet after having made a decision with diluted information!

Fair Winds and Following Seas!